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Sport Climbing: What You Need To Know For The 2024 Olympics

Woman of asian heritage rubbing chalk into her hands getting ready to climb at an Awesome Walls indoor climbing wall. Sport Climbing.

Welcome to the exhilarating world of sport climbing! If you’ve ever been captivated by the sight of skilled athletes scaling towering walls, defying gravity and pushing the boundaries of human athleticism, then you’re in for a real treat. Sport Climbing is a relatively new addition to the prestigious Olympic Games, but it’s quickly become one of the most captivating and adrenaline-fueled events for spectators and participants alike.

We’re about to delve into the history, rules, and training behind this powerful sport, as well as introduce you to some of the standout athletes who have made their mark on the Olympic sport climbing scene. Whether you’re a seasoned climbing enthusiast or simply curious about this exciting discipline, we’re about to cover what you need to know for the Paris Olympic Games. 

History of Sport Climbing

The roots of sport climbing can be traced back to the early 20th century, when the sport of rock climbing began to gain popularity among adventurous outdoor enthusiasts. Over the decades, the sport evolved, with climbers developing new techniques, equipment, and training methods to push the limits of what was possible.

It wasn’t until 2016, however, that climbing finally earned its place on the Olympic stage. After years of lobbying and advocacy, the International Olympic Committee (IOC) announced that climbing would be included as a new event for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. This decision was a significant milestone for the sport, as it recognised the athleticism, skill, and dedication of the world’s top climbing athletes.

How did Climbing become an Olympic Sport?

The journey of climbing to the Olympics was a long and arduous one, but it was ultimately driven by the sport’s growing popularity and the efforts of dedicated advocates. In the early 2000s, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) began working closely with the IOC to showcase the sport’s potential and make the case for its inclusion in the Olympic program.

The IFSC’s efforts paid off in 2016 when the IOC announced that climbing would be added to the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. This decision was based on several factors, including the sport’s global reach, the high-performance level of its athletes, and the unique physical and mental challenges it presents.

Olympic Sport Climbing Rules and Format

Olympic sport climbing competitions are divided into two distinct disciplines: bouldering and lead as one combined event and speed climbing. Each discipline tests different aspects of a climber’s abilities, from pure power and technique to problem-solving and endurance.

  1. Sport Climbing: During the Olympic competition, climbers must compete in both disciplines, with their combined scores determining the overall winner.
    1. Bouldering: Bouldering challenges climbers to navigate a series of short, challenging routes without the use of ropes or harnesses. Climbers must demonstrate their strength, agility, and problem-solving skills to complete the routes.
    2. Lead Climbing: In lead climbing, climbers ascend a tall wall, clipping their rope into extenders as they go. The climber who reaches the highest point on the wall within the time limit is declared the winner.
  2. Speed Climbing: This is where the athletes will compete to reach the top of a standardised 15-metre wall in the fastest possible time.

Olympic Climbing Team Qualification Process

Qualifying for the Olympic climbing team is no easy feat. Aspiring Olympians must navigate a complex system of international competitions and rankings to earn a spot on their national team.

The qualification process typically begins with regional and national competitions, where climbers must achieve a certain level of performance to be eligible for the next stage. From there, they may compete in World Cup events and other international competitions to accumulate points and improve their global ranking.

The top-ranked climbers from each country then have the opportunity to represent their nation at the Olympic Games. The specific number of spots allocated to each country is determined by the IFSC, based on factors such as the overall strength of the sport in that nation.

Training for The Olympics:

Becoming an Olympic-level climber requires an immense amount of dedication, discipline, and physical conditioning. Elite climbers typically train for several hours a day, focusing on a variety of exercises and techniques to hone their skills.

Some key elements of an Olympic climber’s training regimen may include:

  • Strength training: Building upper body, core, and grip strength through weightlifting, pull-ups, and other resistance exercises.
  • Technique practice: Perfecting climbing movements, footwork, and problem-solving through extensive practice on indoor and outdoor climbing walls.
  • Endurance training: Improving cardiovascular fitness and the ability to maintain high-intensity efforts through activities like running, cycling, and swimming.
  • Mental preparation: Developing focus, visualisation, and stress management techniques to perform at their best under pressure.

The road to the Olympics is long and arduous, but for those who are willing to put in the hard work, the rewards can be truly extraordinary.

The British Olympic Climbing Team

The United Kingdom has a rich history in the sport of climbing, and the British Olympic climbing team is no exception. Over the years, the UK has produced some of the world’s top climbing athletes, who have represented their country with distinction at the World Championships.

The four sport climbers who are the shining stars for Team GB at this year’s Olympic Games are Tony Roberts (19), Hamish McArthur (23), Erin McNeice (20) and Molly Thompson-Smith (26). Both Roberts and McArthur are the first ever male climbers for Team GB at an Olympic Games. Roberts,  from Surrey, whose first ever climb was at age three on a family day out, became the first British climber last year to win a World Cup in two different disciplines: lead and boulder and McArthur, from York, is a double Youth World Champion and earned a bronze medal at his first senior World Championship in Moscow three years ago. And the Ladies, McNeice, from Kent, and five-time British Champion Thompson-Smith, from London, both secured qualification to Paris in June through the Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) with McNeice collecting two bronze medals in OQS events in Shanghai and Budapest. 

As the Olympic climbing discipline continues to grow in popularity, the British team is poised to make an even stronger impact on the global stage, showcasing the country’s depth of talent and commitment to the sport.

Women’s Sport Climbing: Standout Athletes and Achievements

The world of sport climbing has been graced by many remarkable women athletes who have pushed the boundaries of what’s possible in the sport. From the graceful movements of Janja Garnbret to the sheer power and determination of Miho Nonaka, these female climbers have captivated audiences and inspired the next generation of climbers.

Garnbret is one of the most powerful forces in women’s Sport Climbing, a Slovenian athlete who has dominated the sport for the past several years. Garnbret’s impressive CV includes multiple World Cup titles, European Championships, and a gold medal at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics.

Another standout performer is Miho Nonaka, a Japanese climber who has consistently been a top contender on the international stage. Nonaka’s combination of strength, technique, and mental fortitude has made her a force to be reckoned with in both bouldering and lead climbing.

These women, along with a host of other talented athletes, have helped to elevate the profile of women’s sport climbing, showcasing the sport’s diversity, athleticism, and the incredible feats that can be achieved through dedication and hard work.

Men’s Sport Climbing: Standout Athletes and Achievements

The world of men’s sport climbing is equally captivating, with a roster of talented athletes who have pushed the boundaries of what’s possible in the sport. From the graceful, technical prowess of Tomoa Narasaki to the sheer power and determination of Adam Ondra, these male climbers have left an indelible mark on the sport climbing scene.

Ondra is one of the most dominant forces in men’s sport climbing, a Czech athlete who has been a consistent top performer in both lead climbing and bouldering. Ondra’s impressive CV includes multiple World Championship titles and a gold medal at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics.

Another standout performer is Tomoa Narasaki, a Japanese climber who has consistently been a top contender in the speed climbing discipline. Narasaki’s lightning-fast ascents and precise technique have made him a fan favourite and a force to be reckoned with on the Olympic stage.

These men, along with a host of other talented athletes, have helped to elevate the profile of men’s sport climbing, showcasing the sport’s diversity, athleticism, and the incredible feats that can be achieved through dedication and hard work.

Sport Climbing at the Paris Olympics

As the world now eagerly awaits the 2024 Paris Olympics Climbing Semifinals and Finals next week, the excitement for the competition is unmistakable. The French capital, with its rich history and stunning architecture, provides a breathtaking backdrop for this thrilling event.

Climbers from around the globe will have their sights set on the ultimate prize: an Olympic medal. The competition promises to be fierce, with the world’s top athletes vying for the chance to etch their names in the annals of Olympic history.

The Paris Olympics will also mark a significant milestone for the sport of climbing, as it continues to grow in popularity and recognition on the global stage. Fans can expect to see even more innovative and daring displays of athleticism, as climbers push the boundaries of what’s possible in the sport.

Whether you’re a seasoned climbing enthusiast or a newcomer to the sport, the 2024 Paris Olympics promise to be an unforgettable experience. So mark your calendars, and get ready to witness the next chapter in the thrilling world of sport climbing.

Men’s Semi Final – Monday 5th August

Women’s Semi Final – Tuesday 6th August

Men’s Final – Friday 9th August

Women’s Final – Saturday 10th August

The Future of Sport Climbing at The Olympics

As we’ve seen, the world of sport climbing is a dynamic and ever-evolving landscape, filled with incredible athletes, awe-inspiring feats, and a rich history that continues to unfold. From its humble beginnings as a niche outdoor pursuit to its current status as a captivating Olympic event, climbing has come a long way in capturing the hearts and imaginations of people around the world.

Looking to the future, it’s clear that the sport of climbing is poised for even greater heights. With the continued growth of the sport’s popularity, the development of new training techniques and equipment, and the emergence of a new generation of talented climbers, the possibilities for the future of sport climbing are truly limitless.

Whether you’re a seasoned climbing enthusiast or someone who’s just discovering the thrill of the sport, there’s never been a better time to get involved. So why not take the first step and start your own climbing journey at an Awesome Walls centre near you? Check out our UK and Irish  locations and book your session today.

Eight weeks ago I was idly checking my social media when a friends post in our running group caught my eye.
‘I’m injured, does anyone want my Race Across Scotland place?’ As expected no one snatched up his offer as running 225 miles over Scotlands Southern Upland Way in under 100 hours appealed!
Funnily enough though a few people mentioned my name…
Whilst big epic running challenges are my thing, I felt with only six weeks notice and a lack of big training days, I wasn’t quite ready for such suffer fest.
I also had the slight complication that I had a 100 mile race two weeks before that one!

To cut a long story short I accepted the place, I only ran 40 miles of the 100 and arrived at Portpatrick on Friday the evening before the big race.

On Saturday 6am 163 of us set off heading East to push our bodies and minds to their limits.
As the miles clicked away we ate plenty and slept little but pushed on regardless.
Day 1, day 2, day 3 were a blur and eventually day 4 arrived.
Everyone was totally spent but with the finish line close (40+ miles) we needed to crack on and complete this epic journey.
Unfortunately many people had had to drop out along the course but 63 competitors pushed on.
After running for 85 hours and sleeping for less than 5 hours I eventually hit a pain barrier that tried to thwart my progress.
Blisters on four toes, the base of one foot and around both ankles brought me to a hobble/wobble!
I had a final nine miles to the finish and NOTHING was going to stop me. While I walked, hobbled, tripped and jogged, a few hardier runners passed me but we all had the same goal in mind.

I’m pleased to say that I crossed the finish line after 227 miles and 89 hours and raised an awesome £2100+ for Mind Charity (the JustGiving page is still open for donations https://bit.ly/DavesRAS24)

I had a good friend Dave Jones help me along the way with nutrition (pot noodles), kit (sweaty clothes) and encouragement (move it…). Without his tremendous support the outcome would not have been the same.

I’ve received so much positive support via emails, social media and personally that I can’t thank my supporters enough.

My years of climbing have taught me many things, but one of the most important things is ‘Stay Positive’.

Hope to see you at the climbing wall soon,

Dave Douglas